Switching to RP?

[BassMaster]

Next oil change I plan on switching EVERYTHING over to Royal Purple. It'll be at the 95k mark.

I only use Amsoil in the toys, have never tried RP but have been reading a lot of good stuff about it. Anybody here running RP?

[SmokedRam]

meh, I use Valvoline Maxlife in the minivan...will be using Castrol GTX in the Ram...bad think is I actually work for an oil company and can get my oil for free...but my family always used Castrol and Valvoline in our vehicles and I love using it.

[AParrette]

when switching to synthetic do the following:

1st change 1/4 synt 3/4 reg
2nd change 1/2 - 1/2
3rd 3/4 - 1/4
4th full

do these at 1k to slowly get rid of the gunk in the engine safely

[TurboT-bird]

why not use Amsoil? All Ive seen of RP is it really turns everything purple inside....

[AParrette]

for future reference than

[BassMaster]

I've already been running synthetic. Depending on price I'll probably stay with Amsoil. My truck doesn't have an owners manual in it, does anyone know of an online one? I'd rather not spend $40 just to find out what fluids the truck calls for.

[TurboT-bird]

What year is and motor is your truck?

[SmokedRam]

when switching to synthetic do the following:

1st change 1/4 synt 3/4 reg
2nd change 1/2 - 1/2
3rd 3/4 - 1/4
4th full

do these at 1k to slowly get rid of the gunk in the engine safely

What is the point in this? There is no reason to do this, if you are talking about getting the conventional out to go to synthetic...both conventional and synthetic oils are 100% compatible with each other.

[BassMaster]

2006 Hemi 5.7l.. Sorry bout that.

Just so there is no misinformation, I have been running the cheaper synthetics in my truck but have always used Amsoil products in my ATV's. December I plan on switching all fluids in my truck over to a true synthetic, I read good things about Royal Purple and considered making the switch but will probably just stick with what I run in my toys.

[SmokedRam]

What kind of filter are you using? you will want to get a good one if you are going to run the RP on an extended drain interval...I suggest Wix...

[BAD HABIT]

you should not mix synthetics with conventionals, period. i was told to use a blend for 2 oil changes and go full syn after, i know i could be wrong because of these being motor oils, but in hydraulics class my books say i shouldnt mix synhectics with others because of the way they are made, now i know the oils them selves cant be made much different, meaning motor oil and hydro oil....so theres my theory....ive always used mobil1 products and prolly will continue too unless i get a hook up on some amsoil....

[car_enthusiast63]

Yea i have also always used mobil 1 oil and filters, real good stuff the only thing ive heard of being better is amsoil which is what i plan on running in my classic project car when i get it running. Ive heard its some of the best oil.

[BassMaster]

I will not blend either, don't believe in doing it. This is turning into quite the educational thread.

I don't plan on going more than 6-8k between changes, I run my truck hard. And tow about once a month. It sees a lot of dirt roads. I clean my K&N when I change my oil. Oh and I found a manual, and once I get my bushings, and ball joints done I will be doing the full service. I did the spark plugs at 90k. Plan on doing everything else between 95k and 100k.

[SmokedRam]

you should not mix synthetics with conventionals, period. i was told to use a blend for 2 oil changes and go full syn after, i know i could be wrong because of these being motor oils, but in hydraulics class my books say i shouldnt mix synhectics with others because of the way they are made, now i know the oils them selves cant be made much different, meaning motor oil and hydro oil....so theres my theory....ive always used mobil1 products and prolly will continue too unless i get a hook up on some amsoil....

no, I actually work for an oil company....you can mix them...back in the early days of synthetics you could not...you can actually go back and forth all you want and not "wean" the engine from either type.

Just felt the need to add the following: Extended drain intervals are perfectly fine, if your truck is OUT of warranty...if you still have a warranty on your vehicle, then follow your manufacturers recommended drain interval for all fluids, regardless of what type/brand of oil you use.

[car_enthusiast63]

i typically change mine every 3k or 4k even though im running full synthetic, ive been told i can let it run much longer but it gives me a better level of comfort knowing its usually running fresh oil, and speaking of spark plugs, does anyone know what performance plugs would work great on a ram 4.7L. Is anyone running those E3s ive seen so much of in sites and tv?

[SmokedRam]

i typically change mine every 3k or 4k even though im running full synthetic, ive been told i can let it run much longer but it gives me a better level of comfort knowing its usually running fresh oil, and speaking of spark plugs, does anyone know what performance plugs would work great on a ram 4.7L. Is anyone running those E3s ive seen so much of in sites and tv?


In all honesty...people think that running any synthetic will allow you to increase your drain interval. However, using synthetic oils broaden your range of protection as far as wear, temp range etc...it does not broaden your drain intervals unless the oil manufacturer has blended it to do so. You have to understand, that although the base oils are different between conventional and synthetic, the additives are nearly identical and they are what break down first.

[004x41500]

I do agree with adam on the drain intervals if you do run syn. oil, though i have seen on some BMWs a 7,500mile MFG. Recomended oil change interval, though I personally would still change mine at 3,000 regardless.

i did some extensive research on synthetic oils, and from that i was able to find out that syn. oils DO NOT contain detergents that conventionals do. and that is why your syn. oils almost always come out cleaner looking than your conv. oils. and this was actually backed by many 1st hand expeirences over on DF, by several members of the 2nd gen community, one that i know of off the top of my head is Sheriff420, he also has pics of what it looks like after (xxx,xxx)miles of syn. oil...

Heres the full disscussion about it:http://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-ram-faqs/221415-motor-oil.html

its actually rather informative, theres lots of food info, and several links to different articles online, and a few charts, also CMCKenna has quite a bit of goood and valuable information regarding oils as well.

heres the page the quote can be found on:
http://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-ram-faqs/221415-motor-oil-8.html

heres another page:
http://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-ram-faqs/221415-motor-oil-7.html



Heres the direct quote:
Well I'm definitely going back to dino oil. I've ran synthetic since I got the truck because I assumed it was better because of the higher resistance to heat and longer life before it starts to break down, even though I change it at 3000 miles religiously.

Here's another picture of the baked on crap that was taken pretty soon after I took the timing chain off my truck with the sun on it to give you a good reference.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4010/4416799565_9d2a5c7d33_b.jpg

Heres another qutoe with more pics from Sheriff420 on DF:

Well that makes me re-think using the valvoline synpower full synthetic 5w30 that I've used for the last couple oil changes.
I had that crusty baked on oil all in my lifter valley and the valve train.
actually, I have pictures of it to back up what you're saying. I've run full synthetic for 54,000 miles.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2783/4416801239_9321ae325d.jpg
http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/86/l_5f8313dff5a2425cb5b31bfa25a93103.jpg

The picture I have of the lifter valley has shop rags stuffed in it, but it looked like the timing chain.

[SmokedRam]

yeah, think about it this way fellas...people say why pay high $$$ for Amsoil or RP is you arent gonna run it like the oil manufacturer intended you to. Well here is the deal, every manufacturer builds specific tolerances into their engines...THEY know whats best for your engines, since they designed them.

But anyway, you can pay an extra $40-60 a year to change your oil at 3 months/3000 miles like the engine manufacturer intends you to, or pay whatever it costs for a new engine every year...

[004x41500]

ya, if there was a syn. oil out there that had detergents in it(probably wont happen anytime soon because they react in a negative way with the syn. oil) i would be more that willing to run a syn. oil. though if i had to run a syn. oil i would most likely buy amsoil., because from what ive read about royal purple, is that youre really not paying for anything more than marketing, and PR.

[SmokedRam]

I would really have to check with the amount of detergents in motor oils...cause honestly the engine manufacturers wouldn't approve them if they did not have detergents. I am going to check with our lab manager here at the plant tomorrow and ask about our brands of synthetics, cause honeslty...the only non detergents we blend are conventional straight weights...SAE 30, 40, 50...etc...but I am 99.99999% sure that all of our multi-vis engine oils, weather synthetic, synthetic blend or conventional contains more than enough detergents in the blend to meet or exceed manufacturers specs.

[004x41500]

ya, though im not sure if the automakers have a spec for detergents, most of what ive seen was for the wear protection, and ability to flow. though i could be missing something. what oil plant do you work for?

[SmokedRam]

yeah, but all engine oils must meet a standard set forth by the SAE and API as well as the engine manufacturers...and the API process is VERY strict.

I work for Amalie Oil Company...we currently are the LARGEST privately owned oil company in the country. We have what I would guess to be 25-30 brands of engine oil, hydraulic fluid, and automotive chemicals that are blended, packaged and shipped out of our plant here in Tampa to just about EVERY part of the world. We also blend and package 1/3 of the Advance Auto Parts engine oils and we blend and bulk fill for SOPUS (Shell/Pennzoil)

[004x41500]

ya. im familiar with amalie, i used to work at a garage that carried amalie in bulk, and by the case. its a very good diesel oil too

[SmokedRam]

Yeah man, been here for 11 years...company has been really good to me and my family. We are having some problems with our new Universal Synthetic ATF in Honda CVT trannies right now, but we think it is more of a dealer error than it is on us. But we are gonna get through it.

[004x41500]

ya, those honda trannys arent exactly the best for fluid. cause the chits like 20 something a quart

[SmokedRam]

Yeah, the service shops are using our stuff in the Honda CVT's and Honda hasn't approved it for use in them...we actually had an email come in the other day from someone with a Magnum that the service shop used it in it's flush/refill and it messed it up.

I don't know whats wrong with it...it SHOULD work fine, but heck I dont know. We also have Dex III, ATF +4, and Mercon V and a Mercon VI...the Mercon V we have to buy from Valvoline in bulk, have it shipped here and we slap our label on it...they have a strangle hold on the Mercon V somehow.

[SmokedRam]

back on topic though...if you are lugging more than 70-75K miles on your rig...you cant go wrong with Valvoline Max Life...I mean seriously...it's good stuff.

[004x41500]

ya, it probably has something to do with a patent or something of that nature.

whats the ATF+4 run you? i would like to buy a case just to have around the house

[SmokedRam]

ya, it probably has something to do with a patent or something of that nature.

whats the ATF+4 run you? i would like to buy a case just to have around the house


It runs me $0 we can pretty much have what we want within a certain limit...we also have grease, gear oils....I mean we make everything from bar/chain oil to food grade mineral oils....we even blowmould our own bottles...LOL

[#860]

I have been running Pennzoil Ultra 10-w 30 in my truck for about 2000 miles now, I think i like it. Switched from Mobil 1 10-w 30.

[SmokedRam]

Pennzoil Ultra is also good stuff...quite honestly there isn't a BAD engine oil on the market today. Pennzoil is also very high in detergents...like Valvoline.

[TurboT-bird]

I run Amsoil in everything I own. Ive never had the problems that those pictures show and Ive been in motors inspecting them. In my 06 dakota I ran Amsoil XL 5w-30 to 11k miles based on tests I did sending oil off to have it analyzed. My 350 sbc I built ran Amsoil Xl and after 50k still looked like new when I pulled to valve covers for a look. My old 2.3 turbo race motors always looked great when I tore them down for upgrades every year. All my good experience with it is why I still run it in everything Including my atv's and even ported chain saws.

[03 Rammer]

IMO, I like my 30-40 dollar oil changes if I do it myself. I could not see myself spending 100-140 bucks on a oil change.

[004x41500]

ya i dont blame you, esp. since you have like 3 gallons (12quarts) of oil that you need. thats a case of oil for every oil change... lol.

[03 Rammer]

Sure is, I use either Mopar or Valvoline with MOPAR filter always. Cost me about 34 bucks usually every 5k. Personal choice.

[SmokedRam]

I believe that Purolator manufactures the MOPAR filters...

If you like WIX, the NAPA Gold filters are also made by WIX.

[004x41500]

ya. i thought read somewhere that theres only like 3 oil filter manufacturers in the world. i could be mistaken though.

[SmokedRam]

Yeah maybe so...I like Fram, but I have heard some horror stories about them, but have personally never seen a prob with them in person. But you can never go wrong by using a filter with your manufacturers name on it...like MOPAR, AC Delco, or Motorcraft.

[004x41500]

ya. theres some bad beef with fram not filtering properly or something. i usually run a Purolator #L14670 it does the job, im happy with it, though i might switch to a wix or napa gold.

[SmokedRam]

Well, yeah... I overheard someone saying the filtering media was cardboard, rather than synthetic media and that the bypass valve is bery flimsy in the frams...but like I said, I have never experienced a prob with them.

[TurboT-bird]

only problem Ive had with fram was no backflow valve in the filter they made for my 2.3 turbo and the stock filter mount had it laying on its side and all the oil drained from it when there was no pressure so every start was a dry start. Ive run them on other motors and had no problems.

[SmokedRam]

I'll be totally honest, the only filter I have EVER had a problem with is one of them Deuche (spelling) filters from Autozone...

[HammerZ71]

I have put RP in both my Ram and my Grand Cherokee. I found that the RP really quieted down my "Hemi Tick" a good bit more than than the Mobil 1 I was running.

The GC also responded quite well to it, picking up a solid 1.5 mpgs after the change (well until I lifted it and put larger, more aggressive tires on it).

Currently running Valvoline full synthetic because the auto parts store had a killer sale on it when it was change time.

I almost always run a Wix filter, but have used Purolator Pure 1 and Mobil 1 filters. Those three along with the K&N always get top reviews.

Fram ALWAYS is the worst filter tested in every review I've ever read.

I'm not really brand specific on my oil, I'll stick with a name brand, full synthetic every time though. I'll change my oil and filter every 6k miles or every 6 months, whichever comes first. It's usually 6 months on the truck as I only average about 8k miles a year.