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ramthis9501
07-05-2011, 11:21 PM
I know I already asked about this but I just read a thread on another site that 160 degrees would throw a code and lower fuel mileage. Is that true?

SmokedRam
07-05-2011, 11:23 PM
Sounds right...a cooler running engine will typically run richer, thus using more fuel.

ramthis9501
07-05-2011, 11:50 PM
Yeah... anyone else have an opinion?

ramthis9501
07-06-2011, 12:17 AM
The more I read, the more negatives pop up on the 160...

txbass06
07-06-2011, 12:24 AM
I'd stay away from a 160. There's not a lot of engines out there that actually need one an most people that do usually don't run a t-stat at all. I'd go with the 180 and call it done


Sent from my iPhone 4 using Tapatalk

ramthis9501
07-06-2011, 12:33 AM
So 180 won't throw any codes? And it won't mess with my mileage at all right?

Stealth Mode
07-06-2011, 12:51 AM
Do you understand why I am though?


Part of what Adam said is correct. In a boosted engine you want to run the af on the rich side. Better to have a bit more fuel than not enough and shit start's "pinging" which is detonation. What I was explaining about the CC temp's really dont have much to do with NA engine's. Just remember, the cooler an engine run's, the longer it last and better it run's. The CEL can be deleted in 9 secs and i'll take a 2mpg drop over keeping an engine running longer anyday.

Stealth Mode
07-06-2011, 12:54 AM
So 180 won't throw any codes? And it won't mess with my mileage at all right?


Yes it will... Stock is 190.

ramthis9501
07-06-2011, 01:06 AM
See some stuff i read said that running cooler will make the engine not last as long, said that it would dump to much fuel trying to make up for the lost temp and in turn worst mileage

ramthis9501
07-06-2011, 01:07 AM
Do you understand why I am though?


Part of what Adam said is correct. In a boosted engine you want to run the af on the rich side. Better to have a bit more fuel than not enough and shit start's "pinging" which is detonation. What I was explaining about the CC temp's really dont have much to do with NA engine's. Just remember, the cooler an engine run's, the longer it last and better it run's. The CEL can be deleted in 9 secs and i'll take a 2mpg drop over keeping an engine running longer anyday.

And yes i do understand that, all i have is a cai and exhaust, so 160 would run to rich for me then right?

SmokedRam
07-06-2011, 01:21 AM
I think most people run the 180 in conjunction with a tune or if they go with the air gap intake...

Stealth Mode
07-06-2011, 01:31 AM
I never heard of a cool engine having a short life span...

Get a programmer bro... Have some fun setting your fuel maps and spark and fuel curves. Plus you'll pick up some hp and possible mpg/ Whatever you do, DO NOT REMOVE THE THERMOSTAT. You have a 5050 chance of it running super super cool, or totally overloading your engine with coolant and overheating it.

BAD HABIT
07-06-2011, 07:00 AM
If you do anything use a 180 I have been for a long time and you can't go wrong with it

Sent from my badass EVO on TapaTalk....

Storm Rider
07-06-2011, 07:07 AM
The lowest most people go is with the 180 t-stat. Stay with that or stock. Don't go causing yourself trouble.

Redtruck-VA
07-06-2011, 07:57 AM
This is an arguement I have with my friends in the Philippines (hot conditions) all the time. Their thought being is the engines don't need thermostats and should be removed at the earlist opportunity. My position is engines need to stablize their operating temperature as quickly as possible to reduce condensation and bring the oil up to temperature to remove any condensation that has been previously trapped. This ideally is for the oil to be at 160-180 degree for 20 minutes. A stable temperature helps an engine maintain engine tolerances that reduce wear and allows the electronics to operate within it's designed parameters. The modern electronic's of today's vehicles are efficient at adjusting A/F and timing which is the basis of what makes a engine run. The various sensors provide the needed inputs to the PCM to achieve this optinum condition. If the sensor(s) are operating outside the designed range (temperature) the PCM then cannot operate as originally designed and will throw a code indicating it's inputs are not valid. These codes are often emission driven, to alert the operator that his vehicle is not within it's factory settings. Performance tunes in many cases raise emission outputs and IMO if they don't then they are not doing anything as HP requires energy. Heat is a byproduct to making power, more power you have the more heat you need to disapiate. heat is the destroyer of engines. Having an engine running cooler at a stable temperature is better than one running at a higher temperature. Cooler fuel/air allows for denser mixture and more ignition timing. Manipulating the sensors to indicate cooler temperatures then what actually exist allows the PCM to adjust to richer fuel/air mixture and increased timing but doesn't provide the benefit of actually having a cooler condition. Anyway, my two cents. I hope this has made some sense.

ramthis9501
07-06-2011, 10:21 AM
Thanks guys, think I'll just go with a 180 so I don't have any trouble

Silverbullet08
07-06-2011, 10:21 AM
hemi stock was like 203* i put a 180 in a no codes...

ramthis9501
07-06-2011, 10:25 AM
I think it's stupid that they make these engines run so hot, according to Chrysler, 212 degrees is optimum for these engines... yeah optimum to make them explode lol

Stealth Mode
07-06-2011, 10:34 AM
Dude... 160* is gonna do nothing but help your engine... Not give you problem's. Some people are just scared to change thing's out to help their engine's because other people get it in their head's that an engine running cooler than normal is "NOT GOOOOD".

ramthis9501
07-06-2011, 11:13 AM
Will it drop my mpgs or raise them?

Stealth Mode
07-06-2011, 11:42 AM
Lol, Greg tried to explain that to you bro. With the advances' in technology, the computer is going to set your air>fuel mixture to the correct setting's to match your running temp's.

If you're that worried about MPG's... Don't drive a RAM cuz. Lol

ORT
07-06-2011, 11:51 AM
I had a lower temp stat in my old 01 ram and I have one now in this ram. Never got a code in either truck bc of it.

ramthis9501
07-06-2011, 11:58 AM
Lol, Greg tried to explain that to you bro. With the advances' in technology, the computer is going to set your air>fuel mixture to the correct setting's to match your running temp's.

If you're that worried about MPG's... Don't drive a RAM cuz. Lol

Lol alright sorry, with the new plenum that'll take care of the mpgs and performance, and the lower temp will help with performance to... sort of lol

redneckrocket38
07-06-2011, 12:01 PM
When i did my water pump i went ahead and changed my t-stat to what I thought was a 180*. Went to work the next morning and the truck wouldnt build temp and threw a code. I popped the t-stat out and looked and the parts idiot gave me a 160* not a 180*. Replaced it with the correct 180* and couldnt be happier. I think a 180* is the hot ticket for these 2nd gens, everyone seems to use them.

ramthis9501
07-06-2011, 12:10 PM
I have an app on my phone that i run that i can run and delete codes, so if i did a 160 and it threw a code would that be all it did or would it do something else weird? The code it throws when it does is p1281, saying its not hot enough. Will that eventually work itself out?

ramthis9501
07-06-2011, 12:16 PM
And just for the hell of it, i put this same question on dodge forum and those people are freaking out on me about how dodge is right about it all and messing with the temp isnt good. They dont think running cooler is ok running hot is good

Stealth Mode
07-06-2011, 12:28 PM
Weeeeellllllll, I guess Greg, ORT, and myself are the retarded rare exception's that like our vehicle's to run cool.

Here's how i'm looking at it...
Take a look at Greg's truck, see the work that's into it? Think he may know a thing or two about performance?
Take a look at ORT's truck, see the work that's into it? Think he may know a thing or two about performance?
Take a look at my truck, see the work that's into it? Think maybe I know a thing or two about performance?

Just sayin' bro....

AParrette
07-06-2011, 12:28 PM
i'm gonna run a 180 over a 160

i don't hit the track enough to make the 160 worthwhile

there are even race applications where the ttat is drilled w/ a tiny hole so that coolant can move but w/ extreme restriction when the tstat is closed, so your still getting movement at any time

ramthis9501
07-06-2011, 12:33 PM
I know man and i trust you all totally, so 160 would be the way to go even though i dont run the track much?

ramthis9501
07-06-2011, 12:34 PM
It just worried me with the negatives ive read on them, but there are some not as bright people out there. I trust you guys over them anyday

Stealth Mode
07-06-2011, 12:40 PM
It's all on what you wanna' do bro. If you just like to cruise with the a/c on and don't mind seeing the 200-210* needle, then run the 180-190 thermo. I like my shit to run cool.

And matter of fact, along with my 160*, a 3Core Griffin Radiator and 20" electric 3 speed fan are gonna make there way into my truck soon to match my Edelbrock water pump.

ramthis9501
07-06-2011, 12:58 PM
Alright man thanks for the help

Stealth Mode
07-06-2011, 01:22 PM
Ain't a problem dude.

I alway's took the serious advice from the guy's that did the shit first hand and had good luck with it. Not the hear-saying queer bot's. Feel me pimpin?

Redtruck-VA
07-06-2011, 01:23 PM
Colton, you can do whatever you want to do and there are always several ways to get it done. The 180 stat is a widely accepted mod. If you want to run cooler, just keep in mind the parameters I mentioned about oil temperatures and cooking off moisture. If you really want the 160 stat and it is throwing a low temp code, then manipulate the sensor so it is telling the PCM it is hotter than it actually is. Remember the PCM has a list of sensors it gets it's information from and it continuely tests these sensors to see if they are providing valid signals within a predetermine set of values. The hole in the thermostat housing is a air bleed hole, it often has a piddle valve in it. (loose rivet), I always remove the rivet (piddle valve) or if it doesn't have one I drill a 1/16th inch hole in it to remove trapped air. I recommend you experiment and come up with your own conclusions. Good luck..

Stealth Mode
07-06-2011, 01:36 PM
Pretty much the best advice you're gonna get. Well said Greg.

RamSport97
07-06-2011, 02:00 PM
I too had a code thrown with the 160 degree thermostat. I am sure you won't this time of year, but when it dips down into the 30s you will more than likely get the P0128 code, which means, "coolant is not reaching operating temp within the specified time interval." Your not going to gain any seat of the pants performance by running a 160 thermostat over a 180. Its a thermostat lol. Go with a 180, and use the Stant Super Stat, it is extremely beefy and will never fail on you.

ramthis9501
07-06-2011, 02:39 PM
Go with a 180, and use the Stant Super Stat, it is extremely beefy and will never fail on you.

That's exactly what I did, thanks again for the help you all

ramthis9501
07-06-2011, 02:41 PM
And something to laugh at, I called a dealership and talked to the service dept. The guy I talked to said if you get a 160 then you will crack the heads... LMAO guess he doesn't know that it's HOTTER temps that will do that. I suggest that that guy go work at mcdonalds or something lol

Stealth Mode
07-06-2011, 02:57 PM
Your not going to gain any seat of the pants performance by running a 160 thermostat over a 180. Its a thermostat lol.


So, a cooler engine don't run better than a hotter engine....? :Wedgie:

txbass06
07-06-2011, 02:59 PM
Go with a 180, and use the Stant Super Stat, it is extremely beefy and will never fail on you.

Just what I was about to say. I swapped mine out for this t-stat when I put a new water pump on mine a month or so ago


Sent from my iPhone 4 using Tapatalk

AParrette
07-06-2011, 03:26 PM
there was this exact argument on a gp site
i am considering 160 but only after i drop a s/c pulley

OklaHemi
07-06-2011, 03:37 PM
all this talk about tstats is making me hungry

RamSport97
07-06-2011, 05:08 PM
So, a cooler engine don't run better than a hotter engine....? :Wedgie:

Ofcourse a cooler engine will run better, but a 20 Degree difference on a bone stock motor that makes 170 horsepower to the rear wheels? Really no performance difference. He won't be very happy with it in the winter time either when he keeps getting the P0128 code.

If we were talking about an older vehicle with no on board diagnostic system, I would say run a 120 degree thermostat!

ramthis9501
07-06-2011, 05:14 PM
Yeah that's why I went with the 180, at least it's a start to some engine upgrades lol

AParrette
07-06-2011, 05:44 PM
a nice trick is to drop a colder range in spark plugs

Redtruck-VA
07-06-2011, 05:53 PM
Back in the day, the standard stat was the 160, but with PCM management this has become 180 degree's. Dropping heat range in spark plugs should be driven by the tune. Racing often benefits colder plugs or continious high speed driving. Nitrous also requires colder plugs. Monitor your gages and figure out what is needed. Good luck..

AParrette
07-06-2011, 06:21 PM
my s/c needs colder plugs to fight off kr*

Redtruck-VA
07-06-2011, 07:21 PM
my s/c needs colder plugs to fight off kr*

Exactly, kr is a killer of pistons. Some folks have opt to use water/alcohol injection instead of a intercooler to assist with controlling kr.

Stealth Mode
07-06-2011, 07:59 PM
Im running a FMIC and the meth kit to keep those CC temp's down. Detonation is a nono!

ramthis9501
07-06-2011, 09:17 PM
Lower temps bring down detonation right? Sorry if someone already answered it but I don't feel like reading... lol