Mod the kegger or swap in the airgap?

[004x41500]

just as the title says. I dont know which way I wanna go.

thoughts? opinions?

this would be going on the new truck, pending that its still there. (see previous thread, here) (http://www.semopars.com/showthread.php?t=1650)

[RamSport97]

I would ONLY purchase the air gap if you decide to go a little more in depth with your new engine. As in, a more agressive Cam, Heads, and Long Tubes. Otherwise, the stock kegger is great for low end torque, which is what a 4x4 needs. The airgap will open up the top end a little more 3500RPM on up. If you don't spend most of your time 3500RPM and up, then don't bother. $600 is quite a lot of money for not a lot of gain on a stock motor.

For 600 dollars get an SCT Tuner and Harland Sharp Roller Rockers. Won't be disappointed with that setup.


However, if you have your mind set on the Air Gap, go ahead and get it, atleast you will NEVER have to worry about the goofy Dodge plenum issue.

[004x41500]

So, I've decided on the following...

AirGap (possibly, still debating)
HS 1.7s (non adjustable)
Longtube headers
SCT tuned by hemifever
Dual E-Fans
Double Roller T-chain and tensioner
High volume, standard pressure oil pump
good cleaning and painting of the oil pan and valve covers
true duals w/super 44s and no kitty.

this is all gonna be on a 360 with 4.10s and 33" tires.

does this setup sound good? should i still keep and mod the kegger, or just do the airgap and be done with it?

i might ocasionally tow our camper with this truck as well. (~6k#) but mostly our boat (~2k#)

[004x41500]

Bump, still open for suggestions

[txbass06]

So, I've decided on the following...

AirGap (possibly, still debating)
HS 1.7s (non adjustable)
Longtube headers
SCT tuned by hemifever
Dual E-Fans
Double Roller T-chain and tensioner
High volume, standard pressure oil pump
good cleaning and painting of the oil pan and valve covers
true duals w/super 44s and no kitty.

this is all gonna be on a 360 with 4.10s and 33" tires.

I approve lol

[004x41500]

Lol, is that a good combo? And I'm still tryin to decide on the airgap or modded kegger any input on that?

[txbass06]

I agree with Patrick on the intake question. I wouldn't spend the money on the air gap unless you were building a street truck. Towing, you'll need the bottom end the kegger nets.

I've never really seen the point of a double roller chain. Maybe someone could explain the advantage/gains of one?

And are you talking about running 2 separate fans with a thermostatic control for them or what? Two 14" fans is all you'll be able to fit on the radiator and I'd worry about overheating when you were towing or driving it hard. Have you seen this kit?
http://www.ffdynamics.com/ramB.html
They also offer an extreme kit that's pushing 7000 cfm.


Everything else looks good bud. It's actually what I plan on doing to mine in the future lol


Sent from my iPhone 4 using Tapatalk

[RamSport97]

I agree with Patrick on the intake question. I wouldn't spend the money on the air gap unless you were building a street truck. Towing, you'll need the bottom end the kegger nets.

I've never really seen the point of a double roller chain. Maybe someone could explain the advantage/gains of one?

And are you talking about running 2 separate fans with a thermostatic control for them or what? Two 14" fans is all you'll be able to fit on the radiator and I'd worry about overheating when you were towing or driving it hard. Have you seen this kit?
http://www.ffdynamics.com/ramB.html
They also offer an extreme kit that's pushing 7000 cfm.


Everything else looks good bud. It's actually what I plan on doing to mine in the future lol


Sent from my iPhone 4 using Tapatalk

There is no performance benefits to running a double roller timing chain other than durability. Chevy and Ford blocks do not place as much wear on their timing chains because the crankshaft and cam shaft are much closer together, so the timing chain isn't very long. Thus there is less stress and wear, and they tend to last over 200k miles.

Well, the Dodge Magnum blocks are a little different, the Crankshaft and Camshaft are a little further apart, so the T-Chain is a little longer, more stress gets placed on it, and it stretches quicker than its Chevy/Ford counterparts. Essentially, a double roller is a more solid design and is thicker and stronger. They will practically last forever, and are quiet.

I have seen a few magnum engines with nearly 1" of slack in only 60k miles.

I replaced mine at approx 120k with a Comps Cam Double Roller from Summit.

As you can see, the slack of the factory T-Chain wasn't too bad, but I also am pretty religious about taking care and maintaining things. However, it was still worthy of replacement in my book.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g114/RiggsAlstott3340/0108011736.jpg

[004x41500]

I agree with Patrick on the intake question. I wouldn't spend the money on the air gap unless you were building a street truck. Towing, you'll need the bottom end the kegger nets.

I've never really seen the point of a double roller chain. Maybe someone could explain the advantage/gains of one?

And are you talking about running 2 separate fans with a thermostatic control for them or what? Two 14" fans is all you'll be able to fit on the radiator and I'd worry about overheating when you were towing or driving it hard. Have you seen this kit?
http://www.ffdynamics.com/ramB.html
They also offer an extreme kit that's pushing 7000 cfm.


Everything else looks good bud. It's actually what I plan on doing to mine in the future lol


Sent from my iPhone 4 using Tapatalk

ya, im actually gonna buy their 7000cfm kit. id rather spend now, and save later. when it comes to engines, i dont skimp on price, cause there is where you really get what you pay for.

i guess this means im keeping the kegger, but everything ive read about cutting the runners, is that when you cut them, it ups your power band, i hate it now (~3100rpm it really wakes up) so what i think im gonna do is just smooth them out, and make a less sharp transition, and cut out the divider.





There is no performance benefits to running a double roller timing chain other than durability. Chevy and Ford blocks do not place as much wear on their timing chains because the crankshaft and cam shaft are much closer together, so the timing chain isn't very long. Thus there is less stress and wear, and they tend to last over 200k miles.

Well, the Dodge Magnum blocks are a little different, the Crankshaft and Camshaft are a little further apart, so the T-Chain is a little longer, more stress gets placed on it, and it stretches quicker than its Chevy/Ford counterparts. Essentially, a double roller is a more solid design and is thicker and stronger. They will practically last forever, and are quiet.

I have seen a few magnum engines with nearly 1" of slack in only 60k miles.

I replaced mine at approx 120k with a Comps Cam Double Roller from Summit.

As you can see, the slack of the factory T-Chain wasn't too bad, but I also am pretty religious about taking care and maintaining things. However, it was still worthy of replacement in my book.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g114/RiggsAlstott3340/0108011736.jpg


holy shit, i can only imagine what mine looks like.

[004x41500]

well, ive decided to hold off on the motor, but i am still planning on the following...

1. smoothed out kegger runners with a hughes plate.
2. FFDynamics 6000cfm kit. (unsure of the 7000cfm kit?)
3. Double roller T-Chain
4. HemiFever tuned SCT
5. 4.56 Gears, with Detroit True-Trac in the rear
6. Water pump
7. HS 1.7 RRs (non adjustable)


maybe a few other things. but we will see what comes out.