The 03 Bastards Club

[Redtruck-VA]

As we all know the 03 being the first year of the Ram Hemi, it is a bit different than the newer models. Basically it doesn't get a lot of love from the aftermarket crowd. But with our uniqueness also comes pride of accomplishment.
So folks feel free to join up and tell us about what all you have done to your 2003 model Ram.

Folks who know Redtruck know's it is my test vehicle which I have tried a few things on, some have failed and some have worked, but the project continues year to year. I believe there is a fix for about every issue that comes up with the right communication.

And with the Moderators approval I hope we can get this thread going.

[Onk]

No approval needed.

If you want me to make you guys a badge, (like the ones under my siggy) just let me know.

[BAD HABIT]

Kev i know its alot of work but as clubs grow, it would be cool to see every club having a badge, so ahead of time thank you

[Onk]

Thats my plan....Each club will have their own badge

[Redtruck-VA]

No approval needed.

If you want me to make you guys a badge, (like the ones under my siggy) just let me know.

Excellent, much appreciated..

I'm thinking this club we won't need individual numbers as we are all "03"..

[Redtruck-VA]

Here is a confirmation on what needs to be done to change PCM's on a 03. I first was told by pretty much everyone that if you change PCM's you have to reflash the new PCM with your VIN and mileage. Well the day before yesterday I installed a junkyard PCM and it was a simple plug and play. It runs beautifully without any issues. Correct mileage is also indicated. Also loaded the SC3865 without issue. This has been a problem for almost a year with a locked PCM not accepting a factory (dealership) reflash and not loading the tuner. The only thing I could load was a DSP U-7137 and it would throw ABS codes. So the bottom line is that PCM's can be simply swapped out without iissues.

[Redtruck-VA]

It's been said a over the years that there is basically only one way to raise the idle on a 03 and that is having B&G reflash your PCM. Well actually I have heard of a couple ways folks have supposely done it. I can't say if they work as I haven't actually done any of them but the pwr steering plug method. But anyway I'll mention them to see if anyone wants to experiment or if they have direct knowledge using these methods. 1. inducing a vacum leak by pulling a test cap. 2. Drilling holes in the TB butterfly. 3. Running the AC and finally by pulling the power steering pressure sensor plug. This raises the idle to about 800 rpm's but you need a switch to reconnect the connection when above idle speed while driving or the fuel isn't cut properly and you have over run. A window switch that is activated at 1000 rpm should do the job nicely. I couldn't find a good location to mount the switch as it needs to be accessible to make adjustments while looking at the tach, So I mounted it like this:
http://img813.imageshack.us/img813/6405/imag0034j.jpg (http://img813.imageshack.us/i/imag0034j.jpg/)

This is a dual switch so I still have it available for other uses later on. I'll report more later on.

[AF_Hemi]

im in! stupid 03's ;) you kinda learn to love to hate them

[Redtruck-VA]

Aaron,
Welcome! we still need to figure out the magic you got going on with running that cam...

[AF_Hemi]

my guess is either im reallllly lucky and this PCM just accepted it, OR hemifever is just freaking amazing. Probably a combo of both

[Redtruck-VA]

my guess is either im reallllly lucky and this PCM just accepted it, OR hemifever is just freaking amazing. Probably a combo of both

Well, I think having a good tuner certainly helped. But my theory and we know what those are worth it is your MAP sensor not the PCM is slightly different. If you want to test it, put another sensor in and see if there is a change. I pulled my MAP sensor out yesterday to see what it would take to install jets. I threaded the hole to 3/8-18 and drilled a cut off bolt with a 1/8 drill just to see if I could detect a change. No change, I'll keep going smaller untill she chokes.

Storytime: Since you have one of those new Tang's you might appreciate this story. Coming out of Walmart, there was a brand new GT/CS black convertable sitting next to Red. As I put my stuff up a couple my age (old) started getting in. The broad might have been a little older as she had some work done. They were in their church going outfits and she had this big hat. Anyway, I said, man that thing looks fast. The guy looks at me all sheepish and says, oh my wife is a real speed demon. I said have you had it at the track? He looked like I just accused him of fondling the neighbor's kid and said No I don't push it. Meantime the bride is struggling with her hat trying to get in and finally throws it in the back seat. Apparently the new ride is not fitting into their lifestyle well. What I'm thinking is someone is going to get one hell of a deal on a practically new GT/CS convertable real soon...

[Redtruck-VA]

After I got the PSC1 installed today I pulled out my home made jet and soldered it up and redrilled it to .100. This is down from .125. Still runs without issues.

Edit: We talking about my MAP restricter project....

Next project is wiiring up the window switch for the Pwr steering sensor.

[Redtruck-VA]

Scored a 6.1 ignition conversion kit for an excellent price so I'll be getting rid of all those fuggly wires.

OBTW, 03's rule!

[SmokedRam]

You sir are a modding guru!!!

[AF_Hemi]

haha this is awesome. what have you gained by making your MAP more restrictive?

[Redtruck-VA]

You sir are a modding guru!!!

Not really, I just returned from overseas and this is the stuff I've been planning for the last six months. Plus I just dumped close to a month's worth of work in three days on the forum. lol

haha this is awesome. what have you gained by making your MAP more restrictive?

This project is in preparation for a cam install, so what I'm doing is trying to find the point that it becomes too restrictive to track the vacum and then back up a little hoping this will keep cam reversion from upsetting the idle. If this doesn't work then I'll go with a remotely mounted MAP and try to manipulate it using a vacum can. I'm just trying to take some of the sensitivity out of the MAP sensor. That and a raised idle I think will work well with a 03. Hell, might even help with the newer trucks. As they say, we will see...

[Redtruck-VA]

Got the Granattelli window switch installed today, I am thinking this may be a must for 03's witha cam. Basically it raises the idle to 800 rpm and then it slides slowly down to 675 rpm. Rev it up past 1000 rpm and it repeats. Does not affect drivibility. This is a very controlled event and should make a lumpy cam behave nicely. But as they say, we will see.

[AF_Hemi]

oooooh im VERY interested in this now...

My fuel trims are so out of whack right now because its either good fuel trims and wont run right, or runs smoothly but pig rich. Maybe this could help!

[Redtruck-VA]

Aaron, I honestly don't know how a cam with the overlap you have runs at stock idle. Back in the day we idled our SB's up to 1200 rpm. Lower the idle the more reversion the intake see's which degrades the MAP signal. This is why I'm focused on idle and cleaning up the MAP signal by isolating it. The MAP jet project probably won't work. But if we use a remote MAP we can manipulate it to a much greater degree,

[Redtruck-VA]

Ok, this can be done by anyone using a AeroForce Interceptor Gauge, as you know there are two anolog inputs available. Most folks use one input for their wideband. I posted on the A/F forum if there was a 0-300psi sensor available and they found one that would work with the Interceptor gauge. I then bought a Miller Tools trans LP adapter (p/n 8259). This replaces the OEM LP sensor where it is mounted to the trans and then the OEM LP sensor mounts to the adapter. The adapter also has a 1/8" threaded hole that a mechanical gage can be screwed into or as I did mount the 0-300psi sensor. Since the 03's needs a little more tuning than the newer models I think monitoring the LP is crucial to keeping the trans alive. Good luck

[Redtruck-VA]

oooooh im VERY interested in this now...

My fuel trims are so out of whack right now because its either good fuel trims and wont run right, or runs smoothly but pig rich. Maybe this could help!

Aaron, there is absolutely no doubt in my mind that you would benefit from the high idle mod.

[AF_Hemi]

i wouldnt benefit? or WOULD? lol

[Redtruck-VA]

i wouldnt benefit? or WOULD? lol

Lol translated.. Yes, I think it would be a very good mod for your truck. Raising the idle is always helpful.

[Redtruck-VA]

The 6.1 dual coil upgrade really cleans up the top of the engine. Not that it really matters, but all the old wires/coils must wieght 20lbs. I have an dead cylinder from the initial install, but will get that sorted out in the morning. Damn gremlins. I think this maybe considered a must for 03's.

Edit: Got everything sorted out, not finished with the cosmetics, but it's running great. I won't say I can really feel a difference, but this is a good mod in my book.

http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/8885/imag0043xa.jpg (http://img18.imageshack.us/i/imag0043xa.jpg/)

[Redtruck-VA]

Scored some 17x9 aluminum wheels. Can you say lite? Sorry I don't have the pictures up. But this is going to give Red a little different look. It is going to be a very busy week for the old girl... with headers this weekend and cam/ springs and wheels next week. And a little bit of additional drop....

Edit: The guy called and the wheel deal is on hold until the end of the month, one wheel has strayed and needs to be retrieved. We will see....

Update: The wheel deal appears to have gone bust, I've heard nothing more from the seller.....

Current wheels.
http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/3884/imag0059iz.jpg (http://img16.imageshack.us/i/imag0059iz.jpg/)

[AParrette]

i dont see how you guys can say you got screwed w/ the 03

i mean it's not like you got a 5.9 in your truck

[Redtruck-VA]

i dont see how you guys can say you got screwed w/ the 03

i mean it's not like you got a 5.9 in your truck

Screwed is not the right word more like if you want to modify a 03 you are going to be challenged at every step. The newer models have various tuning options that support a wide range of cam shafts, or if you want to really change the intake/exhaust/heads these mods contribute to more tuning huddles. No one offers Forced Induction for the 03 because the tuning problems are more than they wanted to attempt to solve. Not even counting the transmission being untunable. 03's are great little trucks, usually lighter than the newer models, but if you want to play, you have to plan the until package and build it with a single goal in mind. And there of course always work around to some of the basic problems but requires a much higher outlay of money/ effort than the newer trucks. Out of the 3g trucks I would most want a 05 model, but then that would be way too easy a solution. You will find the 03 guys are as unique as their trucks and at the end of the day I would say probably get more gratification from working on their trucks than they would from a newer model. 03's rule!! well sort of.... :jester:

[Redtruck-VA]

This is 03 specific information about how I did my o2 sensors on the LT install I just finished. Each collector has a o2 bung and I welded in another on the Y pipe cross over. As you all know 03's came with only one cat and I did two cats, one each coming off my collectors. So I plugged the front o2 sensor into the passenger side collector and my wideband into the driver side collector and then plugged the rear o2 sensor into the Y pipe which is the opposite side the front o2 is plugged into. Needless to say I have no problem with codes and besides the cats are legal and rated 6000# each. So all is good.

[Redtruck-VA]

Here is a bit of an update, the high idle mod continues to work as I had hoped, which is to hold the idle at about 700 rpm while in gear at a stop. There are no negative side effects from this mod. I am still on plan "A" for the cam install. Everything is ready and all I have to do is actually install the cam and springs. I finally got all the little bits and pieces together and the install is ready. Unfortunately, I have a issue overseas I may have to attend to and i don't know if I want to have the install incomplete and have to walk away without it being finished. I'll give a day or so to see what happens.

[Onk]

Im still working on the badge...havent forgotten



"I dream of being Jimmie Johnson's Pit Tramp"

[4XLGator]

Greg, good luck on your install and your overseas issue.

[Redtruck-VA]

Lee thanks, ole red is running better than ever. Almost hate pulling her apart.... lol

[Redtruck-VA]

Post cam install observations. Red is running great, apparently there are several 03's that have cams installed with tighter than 114 lsa. Looking at all the different cams I decided to go with a Crazy Spartan, the numbers just plain look too good to pass up. I have always believed to make the cam happy the idle would need to be raised. This has been a problem as everyone is aware of with the 03. So installing the "high idle mod" was a big step for red and I believe a must. Picked up a good deal on a Crazy Spartan 112 lsa and Red was ready. The 6.1 Valve spring install is a PIA since you are doing the same steps oveer and over. You need to check your spring tool to see if the holes line up correctly and make the necessary changes. I clearanced the hold down holes and replaced the main thread with a grade 8 bolt. Also ground a little more clearance on the body to give a more clearance to the spring. The easier you make this tool work for you the happier you are going to be doing the job. I kept the metal buckets on the 6.1 springs. Some folks remove them and some don't There is an open area on each bucket I faced it to the side of the head to eliminate possible spring binding. If I were to remove them I would shim the spring the thickness of the bucket material. I didn't check install pressure and took it on faith from all the folks saying to use the 6.1 spring. I installed the cam straight up. I didn't change my filter as it is full of oil and at start up I wanted the oil going to the valve train and not side tracked to the filter. I did change the filter today and will cut it open to inspect for startup debris. There was very little noise at startup which surprised me. I'm using standard 6.1 push rods. Installing the intake push rods is a tedious affair. I used pieces of shop rag under the rockers to hold the push rods in place as I put everything together. Then as I pulled the rocker shafts down I pulled the rags out. This helped keep the damn push rods in place. Everything was pretty easy to do, but I did trash my Ac compressor by breaking the seal on it's body. There are the two main bolts holding the pig in place, well there is another hid behind it bolted to the head. I didn't see the hidden bolt and when I levered the housing it sprung a leak. Recommend having spare valve stem locks and a retainer as they are dealer items only. Any specific questions just post away and I or someone I'm sure will answer. OBTW, I'm using a SC3865 91 tune, PSC1, high idle mod, restricted MAP sensor and 6.1 dual coils. And finally make sure your shift light is adjusted correctly because you are going to need it. Good luck...

Edit: I have the speed restrictor set for 140 mph and the rev limiter at 6400 rpm. The current problem is first gear spins hard causing a short shift at around 4500, this causes a bog on the shift. If I manually shift it absolutely rips but you got to watch the rpm's or you'll smack the limiter. I thought I had my shift lite set but it didn't flash, so I need to check that and the column shifter is horrible. So a floor shift would be slick. We will see, and of course everyone knows it never ends...

[ramn it]

definitely belong in this club ! I have new motor in my truck because the "03" have a problem with weak valves and one broke and scorched my piston, it happened at 30,000 miles but was still covered under warranty so now I have a new motor with 100,000 miles on it.

[Redtruck-VA]

definitely belong in this club ! I have new motor in my truck because the "03" have a problem with weak valves and one broke and scorched my piston, it happened at 30,000 miles but was still covered under warranty so now I have a new motor with 100,000 miles on it.

That was probably painful at the time, but sounds like it is working for you now. Was the replacement motor a 03? We do have our challenges. lol..

[ramn it]

I hope everything I got for it was for an 03

[Redtruck-VA]

I hope everything I got for it was for an 03

Well actually a crate motor would have been nice. What I meant was did the new motor correct the problems the 03 motor has been reported having?
The ones that come to mind are:
1. valve springs
2. rocker arm spacers
3. Crank toner ring

Upgrades being,
1. 6.1 valve springs
2. 05 rocker arm spacers
3. late 04+ crank toner ring.
4. 6.1 oil pump
5. 6.1 dual coils ignition

But with that said, since you have 100k+ miles on her. I wouldn't be concerned about anything unless you change your driving style.

[Redtruck-VA]

Seems no one has posted for a while. So let me note a couple of things about our beloved 03's. The wiring harness for the injectors and ignition coils come from the IPM (Intergrated Power Module), newer models it's called the TIPM. The Injectors and ignition coils are powered from the ASD (Automatic Shut Down) relay which is a 12vdc supply. The Injectors and ignition coils have two wires connected to each unit. One is the 12vdc source and the other is a trigger. The trigger in both cases is controlled by the PCM in which a ground is opened and closed activating either the injector or ign coil. The 12vdc source is one wire that splits and branches to the coils and injectors on each bank. There is a lot of reduntant wiring in there. I thought I might be having some cross interference between the wires after I installed a Tach Adapter recently and dismantled the wiring harness to see if I could find anything wrong. In the proccess I separated the injector harness and the ignition harnesses. It didn't fix the problem I was having. But I did manage to simpify the harness some. These are the same wires that have to be re-routed if you choose to use a car intake manifold. Along with the inj and coil wires there is the TB wires, IAT and MAP wires. These can be cleaned up nicely once everything is the way you want them. The problem I was having was the rpm trigger for my shiftlight would deteriorate above 4500 rpm. I finally fixed it by taking the trigger from #1 injector. I also changed ground location at the same time, so can't really say which solved the intial problem. If any of you should ever choose to install a AutoMeter 9117 Tach Adapter as a source for a RPM trigger you will need to modify the coil wiring to get a clean pulse for the Adapter. This is done by parallel wiring the 12vdc source to four coils (one bank or the other) and then routing the 12vdc source through the adapter which then provides a separate output that is a trigger for a tach or other gadget. I use it to trigger a Granatelli RPM window switch that controls my "high idle mod". But honestly almost all gadgets can be triggered from an injector. So Red has the PSC1 triggerd from #8 injector, AutoMeter Shiftlight from #1 injector and the window switch triggered from the Autometer Tach Adaptor. Everything runs as it should when shifting at 6200 rpm there is even a nice second gear bark. She's ready for another trip to the track. Good luck and give your 03 so love...

[Redtruck-VA]

As everyone knows 03 doesn't have a easy way to raise it's idle. I've come up with the High Idle Mod using the PWR steering sensor. But started to hear again reference to what Bob (Moe's) did back when he ran a 03. and that was to drill some meter (bleed) holes in the TB butterfly. I have a old TB that I thought I would experiment with to to see if it worked. But first I took the cover off to see if there was anything that can be adjusted to raise the idle. I tried a could different things and it threw codes. Finally I drilled a couple 3/16" holes in the throttle blade and it raised the idle, but the A/F went fat as the PCM dumped fuel trying to compensate for what it saw as a lean condition. None of this is surprising as the 03 PCM is set to idle at 500 rpm and will do it's best to make adjustments to make the engine maintain that rpm. The only variation is when the AC and PWR steering signals the PCM that the idle should be raised. Just a note B&G performance says it can raise the idle on a 03 with a reflash.

[ramn it]

would a ported throttle body help?? I ve got one on my wish list

[Redtruck-VA]

I use a FastMan 85 mm ported & polished TB and honestly I can't tell a difference, but with that said, I believe it does contribute to the overall engine performance. package

[03MopaRamman]

I did mine (TB) with a CAI system as one of the last mods but did not have my gears yet so like Greg says it all adds up (the Package). If you data log then that is a way of measuring improvement. I read somewhere its 1/10 of a second off a 1/4 mile run on a SC Truck.

[Redtruck-VA]

Danny, when you mount the floor shifter, make a little extra effort to position it for easy use. I did on mine and believe me it is great fun. Slowing down I take it out of OD and then down shift to 2nd and then lean on it rolling out it. You'll find playing is habit forming. If you have buttons on the back of your steering wheel not being used, consider wiring them to your OD. Once plugged into the clock spring the center button on either side of the wheel will control your OD function.

[03MopaRamman]

Not sure what you mean by clock spring but I'll have a look. I test fitted the mega-shifter and with the center arm rest seat up I can reach nicely and with the armrest down shift all gears in a more relaxed mode. I really wanna get that and the cab-lights and PSC done before end of Oct when its too cold out as the Garage Build is at least 2 years out now that my 2 girls are at college.

The Ram has not gotten the attention i would like to have given her this summer.

SRT-10 hood will be here soon too!

http://i823.photobucket.com/albums/zz152/dodge-ram2/2011-08-18202631.jpg

[Redtruck-VA]

Danny, it takes time. The clockspring is what they call the mechanism that allows the switches (horn, air bag, cruise, radio) on the rotating steering wheel to electrically connect to the fixed steering column. Itis a ribbon of wire wound like a coiled clock spring. This was primarily done to eliminate any resistance or break in continuity that the old carbon button that was used in the old days for the horn button. You will be amazed how easy an install the floor shift is. On my truck the cup holder is still fully functional and the ash tray to it left can still be opened when the lever is not in park. Gate shifters take some getting use to, but the rachet is sweet.

[johnnysart]

One of my favorites was Matt aka Hemi450HP his truck was BADASSS rip( his truck that is)